Swedish Ivy

Plectranthus verticillatus

Quick Facts

Plectranthus Background

Most things with the name ivy are climbers and have holdfast that can cling to the wall to grow upwards but not this ivy. Swedish Ivy is not actually an ivy as it has a prostrate form. Not to say that Plectranthus isn’t interesting in itself. A specimen was collected on the coast of southern Africa in 1936 and went unidentified until 1974. Later on, it was naturalized in Australia, Puerto Rico, and Hawaii because it adapts easily to warm climates. Plectranthus is actually quite a large genus with about 85 plus species of plants. These plants can usually go outside in areas in zone 10 - 11 but can be a houseplant in all regions given the right environment. This plant is great for beginners seeing as it is low maintenance and a fast grower.


Environmental Requirements

  • Water

    Swedish Ivy prefers to have regular and even moisture in the soil but not too wet because prolonged exposure to excess moisture can cause root rot. You can allow the plant to dry down between waterings but not too much because then it starts to show visual signs, including wilting and weak stems, indicating that it needs water.

  • Light

    Swedish Ivy prefers natural sunlight (window or outside) but can tolerate artificial light (fluorescent lights). It enjoys semi-shaded areas outdoors because the foliage can burn in full sun. As for indoors, this plant prefers bright indirect light, if the light is too low the stems can get leggy (Too long of internodes because it is stretching for the light) and weak.

  • Humidity

    Average room humidity (About 45% relative humidity) works for Swedish Ivy. When the air gets dry in the winter months a humidifier may need to be added to the room to supplement.

  • Temperature

    A temperature of about 70 to 75 degrees is preferred for indoor Swedish ivy. If you put it outside in the shade it can handle a little hotter but might need more frequent waterings. If you do put it outside for the summer make sure to bring it in for the winter because this topical plant can’t handle a frost.

  • Toxicity

    Swedish Ivy is not toxic to humans or pets but is also not edible. This feature makes it a great house plant and not only is it not toxic but it is also an air purifier too.

  • Soil

    Swedish Ivy enjoys moist but well-drained soils so try to avoid any type of clay mixture. The roots need proper air flow in order to prevent root rot and other moisture issues. Also enjoys a soil PH of 5.5 to 6.5 which is the PH of most potting soils.

How to Identify Swedish Ivy


Plectranthus verticillatus Morphology

Foliage

  • Form: Simple

    • A singular leaf blade that is never divided into smaller leaflet units

  • Shape: Ovate or Ovatus

    • egg shaped leaf with a tapering point and broader end at the base near petiole

  • Apicies: Acute

    • Pointed tip, having a short sharp apex thats less than a 90 degree angle

  • Base: Attenuate or Attenuatus

    • When leaf tissue tapers down petiole to a narrow base with leaf material on either side of the petiole

  • Margin: Crenate or Crenatus

    • Wavy toothed, like dentate but with more round teeth, Toothes with teeth rounded at their apex

  • Venation: Pinnate

    • Secondary veins paired opposite eachother

  • Texture: Soft, flexible, and waxy

  • Arrangement: Opposite

    • When two leaves comes from the same stem at the same level on opposite sides of the stem

As a part of the Lamiaceae family characteristically Swedish Ivy has a square stem. As mentioned above they also have an opposite leaf arrangement that somewhat alternates creating a whorled effect around the stem. Towards the bottom of the picture you can see that the new leaves grow from the axillaries (the portion where the leaves meet the stem) of the old existing leaves.

Inflorescence Morphology

  • Inflorescense Type: Verticillaster

    • A mixed infloresence made up of flowers arranged around an axis attached by pedicils

      • Gives the sense of a false whorl

      • Flowers are arranged to give the look of a whorl but in reality it is opposite axillary cymes

  • Flower Type: Perfect flower

    • Has both stamen and pistils

  • Ovary Position: Superior

    • Flower type in which sepals, petals, and stamens are attached below the ovary to the receptacle 

      • Also described as a hypogynous flower

  • Flower/Corolla shape: Bilabiate (two lipped)

    • Irregular flower with and upper lip and lower lip

    • Upper lip is longer than lower lip 

    • Zygomorphic Flower - Bilateral symmetry or being able to be divided into 2 equal halves on only one plane through central axis

    • Typical of the Lamiacease family

    • Sympetalous - When petals unite alng their margin to form a tubular flower

Growth Habit/Form

Swedish Ivy can grow to be a large plant or stay small if you trim it often. Stems can become very long and sometimes gangly if not enough light is provided. It has soft fleshy stems that can break if you the foliage becomes too much weight to bare. Usually in a hanging/cascading form but can also be a crawler/ ground cover if allowed to.


Flowering

  • Flower usually in the summer

  • White to pale purple flowers

  • Trim flowers after bloom to encourage new growth and keep plant from looking leggy

  • Flower during short days of the year (Around July)

  • Flowers do not have a scent but being part of the mint family the foliage is usually aromatic

Fertilizer Requirements

  • Newly bought or recently uppoted plants don’t need fertilizer for the first year

  • You want a high Nitrogen to promote foliage growth and a high rate of potassium to promote and develop a healthy root system

  • If in active growth (summer months) fertilize Once a month or use a long-lasting slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote Plus (15-9-12)

    • Kelated Iron

  • You can also use indoor plant fertilizer Every 2 to 3 weeks 

  • Miracle grow liquid all purpose plant food is also a good option (12-4-8) 

  • Avoid fertilizing during fall and winter

Pests, Disease, and Other Issues

Mealy Bugs

Spider Mites

Fungas Gnats

Root Rot

Leaf Spot

Pruning and Maintenance

Plectranthus is generally a low maintenance plant but can get out of hand if yo do not prune it regularly. Personally I do not prune mine because I like the large trailing hanging basket look but it can create issues. If the plant gets too large and heavy stems on the underneath or even the top can become weak from all the weight and snap off. Swedish Ivy doesn’t mind being semi root bound but when the roots start to come out of the bottom of the pot its time for an up pot.

If you would like to prune your plant start by cutting off dead blooms, leggy growth, and unruly stems. Regular trimming can encourage your plant direct energy elsewhere in the plant to allow it to branch out and create healthier growth. Pruning is half based off how you want your plant to look and half based off the health of the plant but those can also go hand in hand.

Water Propagation

 

Take Cuttings

Take cuttings of the vines from your mother plant that are about 7 inches or longer with sterile and sharp scissors or pruners

  • Though some may think taking cuttings from your plant is harming it removing growth will actually encourage new growth on your mother plant

  • Cutting off stems allows the plant to redirect the energy it was using to grow those stems into growing the other stems on the plant longer and lusher

  • You can take cuttings any time of the year but will have the best luck in spring or summer in its active growing season

 
 

Remove Foliage and Put In Water

  • Remove bottom leaves about 1 or 2 inches up from the bottom to show a bare stem and leave the rest of the foliage.

  • Put the stem in a cup or bottle of clean water and place the cup or bottle in a spot with bright indirect light.

  • Wait for a week until roots form from anywhere it has root nodules

    • Since Swedish Ivy is a fast grower it shouldn’t take more than 36 hours before roots start to form

    • It is recommended that you use a clear cup or bottle in order to keep an eye on the roots

Plant Your Rooted Cuttings

  • Make sure to change the water weekly or when it starts to look dirty to encourage healthy and quick root growth

  • Once you see roots you can plant your cutting in soil when the roots reach 1 to 2 inches or whatever your desired root length is

    • Cuttings can stay in the bottle longer and grow for as long as you want as long as you keep the water fresh

Soil Propagation

 

Take Cuttings

  • Take cuttings of the vines from your mother plant that are about 7 inches or longer

    • Though some may think taking cuttings from your plant is harming it removing growth will actually encourage new growth on your mother plant

    • Cutting off stems allows the plant to redirect the energy it was using to grow those stems into growing the other stems on the plant longer and lusher

    • You can take cuttings any time of the year but will have the best luck in spring or summer in its active growing season

  • Remove bottom leaves about 1 or 2 inches up to show a bare stem and leave the rest of the foliage

Plant Cuttings

  •  Put the cuttings in the soil to let them callus over and begin to root.

    • I would recommend putting them in a cell pack to allow for easier removal and potting up later on but you can also put them in a pot with other cuttings or whatever you have available to you.

  • You can use auxin (Rooting hormone) to increase the number of cuttings that get roots as well as speed along the process of the cuttings getting roots. 

    • Some plants with root nodules like Swedish Ivy don’t really need auxin because the root readily from their root nodules

Wait For Roots

  • Wait for a week until the roots form from anywhere it has root nodules or from the callus of your cutting 

    • Depending on your conditions Swedish Ivy will root relatively readily and easily. 

    • If you want more roots you can leave them in the cell tray longer but they are ready when they have a small number of roots as well

Plant Rooted Cuttings

You can test to see if your cutting has roots by giving it a little tug. If you feel resistance you probably have roots and if it slides right out of the soil it still needs time. 

  • Don’t water cuttings at this time they prefer humidity and mist to allow them to root and too much water can cause rot of the foliage

  • Once you have roots you can transfer your cutting to a bigger pot for it to establish and become a larger plant